The Kaaba is a cubical structure located at the center of the Grand Mosque in Makkah, Saudi Arabia, and is considered by Muslims to be the most sacred spot on Earth. Muslims orient themselves toward this monument during the five daily prayers, bury their dead facing its meridian, and cherish the ambition of visiting it on pilgrimage (Umrah or Hajj) in accordance with the tenets set out in the Quran. Muslims do not worship the Kaaba, but it is Islam’s most sacred site because it represents the metaphorical house of God and symbolizes the oneness of Allah in Islam.
The Prophet Muhammed (PBUH) stated that in each of the seven heavens there is a Kaaba which is frequented by the angels. The Kaaba of the first heaven is called Bayt Al Izzah and that of the seventh heaven is called al-Bayt Al Ma’mur.
In the pre Islamic era, the Kaaba was a polytheist sanctuary and was a site of pilgrimage for people who most often came for trade from in and around the Arabian Peninsula. The Quran states that Ibrahim (AS) and Ismail (AS) “raised the foundations” of the Kaaba. Many Muslims scholars have interpreted the phrase to mean that they rebuilt and rehabilitated it, as it was first erected by Adam (AS) as only the foundations remained later. The Kaaba has been destroyed, damaged, and subsequently rebuilt several times since then till the present day.
The cube-shaped structure (‘kaaba’ meaning ‘cube’ in Arabic) is roughly 50 feet (15 meters) high, and it is about 35 by 40 feet (10 by 12 meters) at its base. Constructed of gray stone and marble, it is oriented so that its corners roughly correspond to the points of the compass or the cardinal directions. The Kaaba is a square building unlike almost any other religious structure. The interior contains nothing but the pillars supporting the roof and a number of suspended silver and gold lamps. The Kaaba is covered with an enormous cloth of black brocade, a Robe, Garment or ‘Ghilaf’, but most popularly called the Kiswa.
Description
The Kiswa (called Kiswat al-Kaaba in Arabic) is the huge, heavy black silk brocade cloth embroidered with gold Quranic verses enveloping the Kaaba. The Kiswa was replaced annually during the Hajj, symbolizing the start of the Hajj pilgrimage season. However, in recent times the Kiswa is changed on the first day of Muharram. Due to the iconic designs and the quality of materials used in creating the kiswa, it is considered one of the most sacred objects in Islamic art.
The Kiswa used to be made annually in Egypt and is embroidered intricately with gold calligraphy containing the Shahada (Islamic profession of faith) and Quranic verses. The creation of a new Kiswa every year involves more than 200 specialist fabric workers. The outer layer of the Kiswa is made of 47 pieces of silk imported from Italy, each 98 centimetres by 14 metres. The inside of the Kiswa is comprised of a cotton lining which helps preserve the outer silk.
Approximately 120 kg of silver and gold threads that come from Germany are used to embroider and emboss the Quranic verses on the Kiswa. Gold thread adorns the black silk, spelling out Quranic passages and phrases such as ‘There is no God but Allah”, and ‘Glory to God’.
History of the Kiswa
Pre-Islamic Period
The tradition of covering the Kaaba predates the emergence of Islam, with various Yemeni textiles utilized for the draping. Some early reports state that Asad Al Himairi, a man from Yemen was the first person to cover the Kaaba. However, according to Ibn Hisham, King Tubba Abu Karib As’ad of the Himyarite Kingdom, (who would later become a revered figure in Islamic traditions) clothed the Kaaba for the first time when Makkah was under the control of the Jurhum tribe in the early fifth century CE. King Tubba covered the Kaaba in a striped red woolen covering, layering it atop the already existing hangings. Subsequent to this, the Quraysh funded the Kiswa by using the annually collected payments from the tribes who visited and worshipped there.
The tradition of covering the Kaaba dates back to before Islam, and the practice of renewing the Kiswa annually is a practice that is said to have begun during the caliphate of Umar I. Though the annual practice of covering the Kaaba has pre-Islamic origins, it was continued by Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and his successors. Historically, various types of cloth and textiles have been used as draping, but Egyptian produced kiswas were popularized by early Islamic rulers.
The Kiswa also includes the curtain of the Kaaba door. The embroidered curtain was apparently put on the Kaaba gate for the first time in 819 of the Hijri calendar. The door of the Kaaba currently made of solid gold, was added in 1982.
Era of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH)
Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and the Muslims did not participate in the draping of the Kaaba until the conquest of the city at 630 AD (7 AH), as prior to this the Quraish controlled Makkah and the Haram sanctuary. When the Muslims conquered Makkah, they left the old hangings in place, with the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) adding his own kiswa of Yemeni origin. After the passing away of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), his successors continued the tradition of draping the Kiswa. Umar Bin Khattab, the first caliph sent an Egyptian kiswa made out of a white linen (known as a ‘qubati’), which was a type of embroidered linen manufactured by the Coptic Christians living in Egypt.
Under the Umayyads and Abbasids
The pre-Islamic hangings covering the Kaaba would remain until the rule of the Umayyad Caliph Muawiya, who removed the old hangings, and substituted it for one made out of silk, and striped wool. Following the original replacement of the old hangings, the caliph sent two kiswas annually, with one being made out of qubati and the other out of silk. The silk kiswa was draped over the former which would arrive in Makkah at least three months prior to the actual draping. Successive Umayyad caliphs would adhere to the precedent set by Muawiya and continue to supply kiswas (made either of Egyptian linen or silk) and drape them over the coverings from previous years. Much like their Umayyad predecessors, the Abbasids continued to rely on Egyptian factories for the production of the Kiswa, called the Egyptian ‘tiraz’ cloth. However, following his pilgrimage to Makkah in 777 CE, the Abbasid caliph Al-Mahdi commenced the precedent of annually removing and replacing the old Kiswa, when he realized that the accumulated weight from the old kiswas could structurally compromise the Kaaba.
Historic Procession
A tradition dating back to the 12th century, involved a procession that accompanied the Kiswa to Makkah. This procession of the Kiswa and its journey to Makkah specifically dates back to 1184 CE, from an account by Ibn Jubayr. According to Ibn Jubayr, the Kiswa was brought to Makkah via camel from its place of creation along with an elaborate procession accompanied by drums and flags. While still folded, the Kiswa was then placed on the roof of the Kaaba once it reached Makkah. Then in the month of Dhul Hijjah, the Banu Shayba unfolded the cloth in order to display the beautiful embroidery and inscription.
The tradition of the Kiswa being transported by a caravan (mahmal) on the trip to Makkah apparently started around the 15th century. Later, the mahmal carried the new Kiswa to Makkah and the old Kiswa was transported to Cairo after the Hajj was completed.
First a ceremonial washing of the Kaaba, (which in recent times has been led by a representative of the Saudi government), takes place in Muḥarram using perfume and water from the nearby sacred well of Zamzam. Then the Kiswa is changed by 159 technicians and craftsmen, which has been an honored tradition since 2022. Usually, this change is set for the first day of the Islamic month of Muḥarram, which is the start of the new year in the Hijri calendar. Sometimes, in previous years, the change took place on the ninth or tenth day of Dhul Hijjah, the last month of the Islamic calendar. The change and the date changed depending on and aligning with operational logistics.
Location of Manufacture
From the time of the Ayyubids, specifically during the reign of al-Salih Ayyub, the Kiswa was manufactured in Egypt, with material often sourced locally from Sudan, India, and Iraq. The Amir al-Hajj (commander of the Hajj caravan), who was designated by the Sultans of the Mamluk, and later, by the rulers of the Ottoman Empire, transported the Kiswa from Egypt to Makkah annually. In the early nineteenth century, Muhammad Ali Pasha of Egypt bore the expenses for making the Kiswa through his state treasury. Between 1817 and 1927, the Kiswa was manufactured at the Dar al-Kiswah, a specialized workshop in Cairo, Egypt. In 1928, 12 manual looms were brought from India and 60 specialist technicians were hired. From then until the late 1950’s, the Kiswa was made in Egypt. Dar Al-Khoronfosh, a workshop in Cairo’s al-Gamaleya district, was selected for the task of making the Kiswa, and continued this practice throughout the period of the Egyptian monarchy. However, from 1927 onward, its manufacture was at first partially and then, completely moved to Makkah in 1962, after which manufacture of the Kiswa in Egypt stopped. The credit for opening the first specialized kiswa production workshop in Saudi Arabia goes to King Abdul Aziz Al Saud.
In 1977, the current factory was inaugurated to expand and modernize this tradition. Later, under the reign of King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud, the factory was renamed the King Abdulaziz Complex. Over the years, the factory has evolved with technological advancements, incorporating electronic looms and precision equipment, yet always remaining deeply rooted in the sanctity and tradition of its purpose.
First Hand Account
Sobhi Salih al-Tayyib, 80, is one of the last remaining artisans who was involved in the craft of making the Kiswa in Cairo. Al-Tayyib says that at the age of 15, he started working alongside his father in Al-Kharanfosh district of Cairo.
“It’s a profession that I used to love and it was a great honor to participate in making something for the Holy Kaaba,” he told Middle East Eye, explaining that he is sad that it is no longer made in Cairo. The process of making the Kiswa is long and meticulous. Traditionally in Egypt, the Kiswa was first made by mapping out the designs on transparent paper that was perforated with holes and placed on wool. Then, ink would be sprayed on the transparent paper, and the workers would stitch the area with gold thread.
The Hizam
About two-thirds of the way up the Kiswa is an embroidered band called the hizam. This band comprises of sixteen pieces of silk cloth with four pieces attached to each side of the Kaaba. 114 handicraftsmen work painstakingly on these sections of the belt. When assembled, the hizam measures 47 meters in length and 95 centimeters in width. The hizam consists of Quranic verses embroidered with gold and silver thread. Under the belt at each corner of the Kaaba is an additional set of square panels of cloth called the kardashiyyat containing the embroidered letters of Surah Ikhlas. One of the pieces on the belt features a dedication stating the date of the production of the Kiswa. Specialized embroiderers and artisans create the embroidery of the belt of the Kiswa with gold thread.
The Sitara
Over the exterior door to the Kaaba is a cover which is the most elaborately decorated portion of the Kiswa, called the burqu or sitara. The average size of the sitara is 7.75 meters by 3.5 meters and it is assembled by sewing together four separate cloth panels, which contain elaborate, embroidered verses from the Quran.
Thus, the multiple textile sections of the Kiswa comprise the hizam and sitara or burqu. The earliest known still-extant sitara was manufactured in Egypt dating back to 1544, and the earliest Ottoman hizam was made for Selim II in the late 16th century. The basic designs of the hizam and sitara have changed little over time, although the embroidery in gold and silver wire has become more ornate. All inscriptions on the kiswa, hizam and sitara, use a unique style of calligraphy.
Material & Design: A Legacy Interlaced with Silk and Faith
The Kiswa features intricate gold embroidery with the Shahada and Quranic verses, as well as Islamic ornamental patterns. The Kiswa is made of black brocade, with white silk thread dyed black.
Today the Kiswa’s design comprises supreme artistry in black, gold, and silver colors. Black silk embodies the entirety of the garment, providing background to the inscriptions with huge unaccented sections. The gold and silver constitute the fabric that displays the inscriptions and the accents provide embellishments to the whole fabric. Rendered in the Thuluth calligraphy format and style, these characters overlap each other and protrude slightly from the Kiswa. Each of the four points of the Kiswa, are strategically placed at the four corners of the Kaaba, (namely, Rukn al-Hajjar al-Aswad, Rukn al-‘Iraqi, Rukn al-Yamani and the Rukn ush-Sham). Surah Ikhlas is elaborately inscribed in circular medallions. These are beneath the hizam, where longer Qur’anic verses appear. Artisans carefully interweave gold and silver wire to create these wondrous lettering, which appear radiant on the black silk.
Mode of Manufacture
The Kiswa fabric uses 670 kilograms of imported white silk thread which is subsequently dyed black. Jacquard machines weave the black thread into either plain or patterned cloth equaling forty-seven pieces of cloth measuring 98 centimeters by 14 meters. During the weaving process, the patterned cloth then incorporates inscriptions from the Shahada. Each panel of cloth is then stretched over a loom and templates of verses from the Quran as well as varied Islamic ornamental patterns are applied using silk screens. Furthermore, embroidered decorative elements and Quranic verses, are assiduously hand-embroidered by Saudi artisans using gold and silver thread. Once the embroidery is complete, the cloth is sewn together and a white cotton calico backing is applied for support.
Additional Textiles
Other textiles used include a curtain hung over the Bab al-Tawba (Door of Repentance) in the interior of the Kaaba. Also remade each year is the green silk bag which holds the key to the Kaaba. Along with these textiles, the workshops send ropes for attaching the voluminous Kiswa to the Kaaba, and spare silk fabric in case the Kiswa gets damaged and needs repair. Degradation, disfiguration and wear and tear are caused by exposure to natural elements and popular rituals, as well as periodic handling. This necessitates regular and meticulous maintenance of the Kiswa.
Annual Replacement
The Kiswa is replaced each year, and the Kaaba is redraped in a new covering typically before or at the time of the Islamic new year. As the new Kiswa is attached, the old one is unfurled and lowered from beneath, after the supporting robes are loosened. When the new Kiswa is strategically placed, the individual pieces are sewn together to completely encase the Kaaba.
Old Kiswa
Once removed, the old Kiswa is cut into pieces, which are distributed to pilgrims, dignitaries, museums and organizations. Thus, one can view judiciously selected pieces of the Kiswa in museum collections around the world.
The part of the Kiswa on display at the United Nations is the prestigious portion that once covered the door of the Holy Kaaba and it is a gift from Saudi Arabia. Saudi Arabia is one of the original founders of the UN and presented this esteemed gift as a reaffirmation of its commitment to the principles of the organization. The portion of the Kiswa displayed in the UN is an imposing and superb piece of Islamic decorative art and it comprises almost the full height of a wall. It was presented by the then Saudi Arabian Ambassador to the United Nations, His Excellency Shaikh Faisal Al-Hujaylan, in January 1983 and was consequently graciously accepted by the United Nations Secretary-General Javier Perez de Cuellar.
Color History
The Kaaba has been draped in different colors from ancient times, including white, red, and black, with the color choice often influenced by financial means. The Prophet (PBUH) covered it with white-and-red striped Yemeni cloth, whilst the color of choice for the Caliphs Abu Bakr Al-Siddiq, (RA) Umar ibn Khattab (RA) and Uthman ibn Affan (RA) was white. Caliph Ibn Al-Zubayr (RA) preferred red brocade.
During the Abbasid era, it was draped once with white and once in red, while the Seljuk Sultan covered it with yellow brocade. The Abbasid Caliph Al-Nassir changed the Kiswa’s color to green and later to black brocade, and this has remained its color to the present day. Qubati fabric from Egypt and the Yemeni kiswa were both prime choices of quality fabric used as kiswa coverings famous at the time.
Dr. Fawaz Al-Dahas, director of the Center of Makkah History, told Arab News, “The Kaaba was covered once in white, once in red, and once in black, and the choice of color was based on the financial means in every era.” Asked about why the colors changed over the ages, Dr. Al-Dahas said that though white was the brightest color, it was not very practical or durable. It often became torn, dirty, and impure as pilgrims handled it inappropriately sometimes and was hence eventually replaced with the more enduring choice of black brocade.
Manufacturing
The Kiswa is manufactured in a specialized factory in Makkah called the King Abdul Aziz Complex for the Holy Kaaba Kiswa. This world-renowned facility is dedicated to producing the Kiswa and is located in the Om Al-Joud district of Makkah. It is where devotion and artistry come together as the intricate black silk covering of the Holy Kaaba, adorned with Quranic verses and embroidered in gold-plated thread is fashioned and produced here.
The Kiswa Al Kaaba factory in Makkah has been making the Kiswa for almost 45 years. It takes a whole year to produce the cover, of which the painstaking embroidery itself takes 6-8 months. The factory opened in 1977 and has about 200 employees, 114 of whom work solely on embroidery. Writing on the Kiswa requires meticulous skill and long hours of training. A challenging task for the calligrapher is the overlapping text, which not only need to be beautifully executed but also have to conform to a logical order of words, while skilfully and artfully combining the elements of the traditional artform.
The methods of writing on the Kiswa have progressed significantly over the years. Previously calligraphers used to write the script with chalk on the silk cloth. Later on, silk-screen printing was introduced which allowed the calligraphers to save the script, preserving the format on a computer.
Creating the Kiswa is a four-step process. Firstly, the raw silk, which is imported from Italy, is dyed black over a 22-hour period, then it is meticulously woven mechanically into plain black sheets. These are then separated — some will be designated to be embroidered in gold and silver, while other black pieces are retained. 54 pieces of cloth are created, then sewn together to envelope the Kaaba on one of the world’s largest sewing machines.
Inside the Kiswa Complex
A visit to the complex offers a rare opportunity to witness the meticulous artistry behind one of the Islamic world’s most revered symbols. Over 200 skilled artisans work across departments including machine and hand embroidery, silk weaving, gold threadwork, printing, and final assembly. Visitors are allowed to explore the various stages of production, gaining insight into the delicate processes in the manufacture of the incredible Kiswa.
Some Unusual Facts About the Kiswa
- According to current statistics, the total cost of making a kiswa is SAR 17-22 million (about 6 million dollars or around £3.4m).
- The Kiswa contains 47 pieces of cloth and the entire Kiswa is about 658 square meters in length and weighs about 670 Kgs, which contains 15 Kgs of pure gold thread. It requires a massive amount of 220 kg of gold and silver thread for embroidery.
- It is a sustained, time-consuming creation as it takes 137-200 workers about 8-12 months to create the Kiswa, though in the later years, the use of machinery has considerably speeded up the entire process.
- The only stylistic and specific design requirement for the crafting of the Kiswa is for the text and decorations to be visible from a distance.
Though architecturally a cube, the Kaaba is marvellous in its very simplicity. Adding to its grandeur and beauty, is the resplendent and luminous Kiswa. Its ebony rich black fabric is in stark contrast to, and yet complements the superb Arabic calligraphy interwoven in warm, sparkling gold threads, proving to be a beacon for the multitude of pilgrims arriving at the Haram, beckoning them to perform their solemn religious rites in the beauty and calm atmosphere of this holy sanctuary. The Kiswa, the covering of the Kaaba, is a remarkable piece of artistry and tradition. It’s not just a cloth; it’s a testament to Islamic faith, craft, and to the profound significance of the Kaaba.
Sources:
- “How the manufacturing of the Kaaba cover, kiswa, changed over the centuries”. Arab News. 2022-07-08.
- Mortel, Richard (1988). “The Kiswa: Its Origins and Development from Pre-Islamic Times until the End of the Mamluk Period”. Al-‘Usûr. 3 (2): 30–46.
- Nassar, Nahla (2013). “Dar al-Kiswa al-Sharifa: Administration and Production”. In Porter, Venetia; Seif, Liana (eds.). The Hajj. Collected Essays.. pp. 175–183.
- “Saudi Aramco World : A Gift from the Kingdom”. www.saudiaramcoworld.com.
- Robinson, Arthur E. (1931). “The Mahmal of the Moslem Pilgrimage”. Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland. 63 (1): 117–127
- “When the Kaaba’s Kiswa came from Egypt”. Arab News. 2019-08-01.
- https://www.baytalfann.com/post/the-kaaba-and-the-kiswah
